After the Thanksgiving holiday, it’s nice not to eat any turkey – or maybe even any meat – for a night or two. My husband would disagree, since turkey is his favorite meal, but I think we’re about to get enough heavy eating heading into the holiday season, with the parties and meals out with friends, snacking while shopping, and the end of month family events. A break is nice.
The mushroom dish has butter and cream, so it isn’t exactly diet food, but you can vary the quatities pf those ingredients within reason to reduce the caloric content. And it’s a two-fer: eat it on toasted bread for a quick meal, or tossed with pasta. If you make enough, you can have it both ways.
The celeriac soup is deceptively rich as it contains no cream or other dairy. The thickness relies entirely on the celeriac and the pectin and cellulose in the onion and leek.
Mixed mushroom ragoût
2 1/2 lbs mixed mushrooms – cremini, shiitake, oyster, maitake
2 shallots, minced
1 onion, minced
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 1/2 c dry white wine
2 oz unsalted butter
2/3 c heavy cream
2 tsp minced thyme
1/2 tsp minced rosemary
1/4 c minced flat leaf parsley
Salt and pepper
Remove stems and tough portions of mushrooms. Cut the round mushrooms (cremini, etc) in quarters. Slice the others into chunks.
Cook mushrooms in batches, by type. Divide onion and shallot into number of portions equal to number of types of mushrooms. Place skillet on high heat. Add grapeseed oil and butter. Saute first portion of shallot and onion until golden. Add mushrooms and saute until they are soft and liquidy; add divided portion of wine. Cook, stirring from time to time, until all liquid is absorbed. Once liquid is absorbed, cook, stirring infrequently, until mushrooms are golden brown. Add a knob of butter, saute several minutes more, and transfer to a bowl. Repeat for all mushrooms, combining in the same bowl.
Combine all mushrooms with cream and bring to a simmer. Do not allow cream to boil. Add herbs; season with salt and pepper to taste. Hold for service, covered.
1 loaf ciabatta, sliced 1/4″
1 lb short dried pasta, like rigatoni, or fresh pasta, like tagliatelle
Heavy cream (optional)
Grill sliced ciabatta with olive oil. Serve two to a plate, topped with ragoût.
Bring a large pot of salted water to s boil and cook the pasta. Drain and toss with the mushrooms. Moisten with a little cream if necessary. Serve with cheese.
1 large celeriac, peeled and diced
2 stalks celery, strings removed, diced
1 leek, cleaned and diced (white only)
1 small onion, peeled and diced
2 bay leaves
chicken stock, light, 6 c per 2 c celeriac and 2/3 c leek
salt and pepper
celery salt, large flake
Place saucepan over medium heat. Add oil. Sweat leeks and onion; add thyme, bay, and celeriac. Sweat 1-2 minutes more. Add stock. Simmer until vegetables are tender throughout. Remove thyme branches and bay. Puree through blender and strain through chinois. Puree again.
Season with salt, celery salt, and pepper to taste. Thin with water or stock if necessary. Add garniture (below).
Select one of these –
Creme fraiche, pumpkinsed oil
crispy pork belly (see elsewhere), 1/4″ dice, sauteed brunoise of celery and carrot (saute in pork fat), puffed wild rice
Salad of celery leaves and thinly sliced raw celery (use vegetable peeler), dressed lightly with truffle oil